In the bustling neighbourhood of Sowcarpet in north Chennai, which once boasted of over 4,000 goldsmiths, a web of narrow lanes lead to a tiny shop. This cramped corner, where Palani (88) hunched over his work and labours on, conceals tales of a craft on the brink of extinction. Palani produces intricate gold bangles, chains, mangalsutras, rings and earrings, works which whisper stories of heritage and tradition.
Early history and trade
The traditional goldsmiths of Tamil Nadu have a rich and storied history, deeply intertwined with the region’s cultural and economic fabric. Historically for goldsmiths of Tamil Nadu the work they do is not merely a profession but a revered art form, characterised by intricate craftsmanship and a strong community bond.
In the early stages of their profession, Tamil Nadu’s goldsmiths, often referred to as “thattans“, were highly respected within their communities. They played a crucial role in family traditions, particularly during events such as weddings and religious ceremonies. The demand for custom-made jewellery was high, with families often commissioning unique pieces that reflected their heritage and status.
The trade flourished significantly before India’s independence in 1947. During this period, local artisans were integral to the economy, with bustling markets in cities like Madurai and Coimbatore serving as hubs for gold jewellery. The craftsmanship was passed down through generations, with families establishing their workshops or “pattarai” that became centres of creativity and skill.
Economic and cultural significance
Goldsmiths were not only artisans but also custodians of cultural heritage. They crafted traditional ornaments that held deep symbolic meanings, such as the “thali“, which represents marital status and other pieces that were often adorned with intricate designs and motifs significant to Tamil culture. The craftsmanship involved meticulous technique, often requiring years of training and experience.
Before the advent of mass-produced jewellery, goldsmiths enjoyed a stable livelihood, as their work was in high demand. Palani mentioned, “We were often invited to families to create personalised pieces, fostering strong relationships with their clients. This personalised service was a hallmark of our trade, that allowed us to cater to specific tastes and preferences.”
Shift in consumer behaviour
The decline of traditional goldsmiths began gradually, influenced by various factors. The post-independence era saw the introduction of mechanisation and mass production in jewellery making, which significantly altered consumer behaviour. The rise of large jewellery showrooms and chains offered convenience and competitive pricing, leading to a shift in preference from handcrafted to ready-made jewellery.
As urbanisation increased and lifestyles changed, many in the younger generation sought employment in more lucrative sectors, such as IT, leading to a decline in interest in traditional crafts. The allure of quick profits in other industries diminished the pool of skilled artisans, leaving many workshops struggling to survive.
Impact of the Gold Control Act’s withdrawal
The withdrawal of the Gold Control Act in 1990 had significant implications for goldsmiths in Tamil Nadu, fundamentally altering the landscape of the jewellery industry and affecting traditional artisans in various ways.
The repeal of the Gold Control Act led to the liberalisation of gold imports, which resulted in an influx of machine-made jewellery. Large retail chains began to dominate the market, offering ready-made pieces at competitive prices. This shift in consumer preference towards mass-produced jewellery diminished the demand for handcrafted items traditionally made by local goldsmiths, leading to a sharp decline in their business.
Before the repeal, goldsmiths often relied on local clientele and royal patronage for their trade. With the advent of large jewellery showrooms and the convenience of purchasing ready-made items, many customers began to favour these establishments over traditional goldsmiths. This change not only reduced the volume of orders but also impacted the artisans’ ability to sustain their craft as fewer people sought personalised, handcrafted jewellery.
The economic landscape for goldsmiths became precarious after the withdrawal of the Gold Control Act. Many artisans, who had previously enjoyed a stable income, found themselves struggling to compete with the lower prices of mass-produced jewellery. Reports indicated that some goldsmiths faced severe financial difficulties, leading to a rise in debts and, tragically, even instances of suicide among those unable to cope with the economic strain.
As the profitability of traditional goldsmithing dwindled, many artisans were forced to abandon their craft in search of more stable employment opportunities. This trend resulted in a significant reduction in the number of skilled goldsmiths, with estimates suggesting that the number of practising goldsmiths in Tamil Nadu plummeted from over 5,000 in each district to less than 1,500 in recent years.
Today, the legacy of Tamil Nadu’s goldsmiths faces an existential threat. The combination of mechanisation, changing consumer preferences, and a lack of support from governmental initiatives has resulted in a significant decline in the number of practising artisans. Many traditional goldsmiths now find themselves battling financial instability, with some forced to abandon their craft altogether.
These native goldsmiths work in humble settings. Sitting on the floor with a small stool in front of them, they create exquisite jewellery using time-honoured techniques. The shops they own are small and poorly lit, barely accommodating a single person. Equipped with burners and tools designed to withstand high heat, they laboriously mould gold into intricate designs that are a testament to their dedication and skill.
Palani, who has dedicated his life to the craft since the 1970s, grieves that he might be the last of his kind. The landscape has transformed drastically since his early days in the trade.
“The ever-increasing influence of North Indian artisans and automated machines has replaced the work that defined the essence of Tamil Nadu’s goldsmithing heritage,” he says.
He hands over a few of the pieces that he made over the past month, like Rakkodi, Surya & Chandra Pirai, Mookuthi, and Chavadi.
Chokalingam, 57, owns a modest 6 x 6 sq ft shop in Sowcarpet. Representing the fourth generation in a line of goldsmiths, he recognizes that his legacy will end with him.
“The convenience of ready-made jewellery from gold towers and the cost-effective opportunities in other sectors have driven my children towards IT jobs, leaving behind my business that they consider labour-intensive and inadequately rewarding.”
Balaji, 65, from Triplicane Mohan Jewelers, narrates the reality of his trade’s decline. With roots dating back over 150 years, his family’s establishment now faces the challenge of decreasing demand for traditional custom pieces. People’s preference for readymade jewellery has shifted the tides against native goldsmiths. Moreover, Balaji complains about the exploitation they face as customers bargain over prices, a practice uncommon in the grand, shiny jewellery showrooms.
The consequences of this transformation go beyond economic woes. These artisans rely on timely payments from their clients to sustain their businesses and invest in the next customer’s work. Yet, an alarming number of customers fail to honour their commitments, pushing these craftsmen to the edge. Consequently, the once-thriving community is now diminishing, with debt forcing many to close their shops and seek alternative livelihoods.
Arumugam, now working as a goldsmith with a prominent jeweller, complains about the profound change in his craft’s essence. Having moved from Tiruchendur due to debts, he expressed the anguish of being reduced to a routine job, devoid of the artistic freedom that once defined his creations. His tale is one of desperation as he recounts the losses he endured.
“It breaks my heart when I think how my age-old passion is in decline,” he says.
The narrative of Tamil Nadu’s native goldsmiths is emblematic of a larger shifts in consumer behaviour and economic dynamics. The pull towards easy and instant goods has buried the appreciation for handcrafted, custom pieces that were once symbols of pride. The ancestral artistry that used to shape cultural identities now struggles to survive against the advancement of convenience and mass production.
Their catalogue may be modest, comprising only a few unique designs, but their craft is a repository of tradition. Despite the waning interest of present generations, there are those who continue to seek the expertise of these goldsmiths, particularly for crafting the sacred Thali that holds generational significance. However, even this trickle of customers is not enough to stem the tide of decline.
The Madras Jewelers and Diamonds Traders Association sheds light on another challenge faced by these artisans. Despite being custodians of cultural heritage, they receive minimal support from the Central Government Vishwakarma Scheme, allocated for craftsmen like ironsmiths, goldsmiths, tailors and more. This lack of support adds to the uphill battle that these skilled craftsmen face.
In 30-40 years, if the current trends persist, the native goldsmiths of Tamil Nadu might cease to exist. The loss goes beyond a fading business; it is the loss of heritage, culture, and a unique art form that has been woven into the fabric of the region for centuries. As we witness the last sparks of this once-glowing craft, it is a reminder that our choices as consumers shape not just industries, but the lives and legacies of those who have devoted themselves to preserving tradition and artistry.
Images are for reference only.Images and contents gathered automatic from google or 3rd party sources.All rights on the images and contents are with their legal original owners.
Comments are closed, but trackbacks and pingbacks are open.